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Traveling Through Mountain Tundra
There is something serene and intoxicating
about traveling through mountain tundra, high above the trees.
It is like entering another land, far away from the busy life
of the forest or city that may be only a few miles away and a
few thousand feet lower. The grass and flowers seem so delicate,and
yet stand there in freezing winds, tough enough to come back
for their brief season each year. Below is a short story of a
night spent up in the mountain tundra, followed by a couple suggestions
on where you can more easily access the high country.
A Night On The Mountain Tundra
My wife Ana and I drove ten minutes out
of town, and found the dirt road that goes up to Storm Lake.
We had been up to the lake a month before, shortly after moving
to Anaconda, Montana. The road was pretty hard on the car, but
we couldn't resist returning. This time we were bringing backpacks,
so we could hike up to the tundra and stay the night.
When we arrived at the lake, there were
a couple other cars, but nobody in sight. The lake was sparkling
in the sun, and the mountains of the Anaconda-Pintler range rose
up all around it. It was quiet, and cooler here at 8,000 feet.
We put on our packs and started down the trail around the west
side of the lake. Twenty minutes later we were past the lake,
and the trail steepened.
An hour of zig-zagging up the mountainside,
and we finally met another hiker. We stopped to talk briefly,
and noticed the handgun on his belt. This seems to be common
in Montana. We have seen guns on the hiking trails and in the
bars, and the bank tellers don't even blink when customers walk
in wearing guns (probably have their own). We didn't think to
ask the hiker why he had one.
We didn't find out until later that there
are grizzlies in the area here at times, something that some
"experts," have denied. At least we had our freon horn
to blast if we met a bear, but then maybe that would just get
the bear angry.
Tundra Flowers
The trees end just before Storm Lake
Pass, and the flowers become small, but colorful and tougher
than their delicate appearance suggests. White, yellow and reds.
Ana waited among the blossums patiently while I ran the five-minutes-that-became-twenty
up to the peak of Mount Tiny, not quite 10,000- feet high. I
suppose it is small compared to some of the surrounding mountains,
but it still seems almost rude to give a beautiful mountain a
name like that.
Later, up past goat meadow, Ana waited
again while I scrambled up the rocks to the top of Kurt Peak
(also a foot or two below 10,000 feet). I couldn't find the route
back down on the north side where I came up, so I went back up
part-way, then down the west side and back north to the grassy
slope where Ana was waiting.
Months later we realized how foolish
it was to leave Ana alone. Montana has some dangerous animals.
About the time we were moving, two teenage boys were attacked
by a mountain lion on the hillside just behind town. The fourteen-year-old
fired his gun to scare it off. It is worth noting that both boys
were probably larger than my gunless wife. Fortunately, we didn't
meet any bears or cougars on this hiking trip, but Ana had other
things to worry about.
Aliens On The Tundra
"I hear voices," she told me
when we were in the tent. Just mountain winds, I thought to myself.
It was her first time camping on the tundra, and in such an isolated
place. I assured her that there was nobody within ten miles of
us, but then she was worried about aliens landing in the meadow.
Hey, it would make a good landing site. Meanwhile, the wind was
blowing strong, threatening to shred the tent all night, and
sounding like the whispers or screams of ghosts. By morning the
wind finally relented, but it was well below freezing. It was
time to get Ana home.
Despite the cold that she hates so much,
Ana couldn't help but stop to take in the view as we crossed
the high meadows on our way home. Mountains, grey with rock,
green with grass and flowers, and painted with white patches
of snow, were everywhere we looked. Lakes sat in the valleys
below, unvisited for weeks at a time. We will be back there again,
I think, although perhaps with bear spray and alien repellant.
The Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness
Forty-five miles of the Continental Divide
Trail go through the Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness. Much of it
is high up in the mountain tundra.The other trails in the wilderness
are never heavily used, and you can easily find mountains and
whole valleys where you'll be the only human residents for as
long as you stay. It is difficult to get much information on
the area, but you can read a bit more about it at Wilderness.net.
Other Places To Travel Through
Mountain Tundra
Colorado has many places where you can
drive up to the tundra. Look for any passes on the map that are
above ten-thousand feet, and you'll probably find tundra there.
If you want great hiking above tree-line, Rocky Mountain National
park is the place to go. For more information, visit the Rocky Mountain
National Park Website.
Glacier National Park in Montana also
has wonderful trails for day-hikes through the tundra. This is
one of the most beautiful parks on the planet. For more information,
visit the Glacier
National Park Website.
One of the best drives through the tundra
is highway 212 from the northeast entrance of Yellowstone National
Park up and over Beartooth pass and then into Montana. The road
stays high above the trees for a long stretch, and the views
are fantastic.
Mountain Tundra Tips
If you plan to hike, or spend any time
outside on the tundra, take the following precautions:
*Dress warmly. I have been snowed on in August in southern Colorado.
*Bring water. The air is dry, and you'll be thirsty.
*Wear sunglasses. It is easy to damage your eyes in the thin
air.
*Use sunblock. It is very easy to get a sunburn at high altitude.
*Tell somebody when you'll be back. It's easy to get lost in
the rolling mountain tundra.
*Follow trails, if possible, and otherwise try not to damage
the delicate enviroment.
Related Page: Montana
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