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Baños de Agua Santa, usually just called Baños, is in the Andes Mountains, at the foot of the volcano Tungurahua, in Ecuador. A bus from Quito, eighty miles to the north, will cost you less than five dollars. Once there, you can soak in one of the hot springs, go to one of the discos or other bars, and watch a volcano erupt.
In June of 2004, my wife and I spent a week or so in Banos. We had a clean hotel room with cable TV and lots of hot water, for $6 per night (It was $12 normally, but we are good negotiators). We paid $1 for lunch each day ($2.25 total for both, with tip), which was usually chicken, rice, beans, salad and juice. Sometimes we splurged and paid $1.50 for lunch at a nicer place.
Most nights we went to Santo Pecado ("saint/sinner") or one of the other discos (our favorite was Tuparina, perhaps due to the huayusa, a drink made of a psychedelic plant collected by the family of the owner). Some days I played chess in the open market in the center of town, with Manolo, Rene, or other locals.
There are two hot spring facilities in Banos, and two more with cold water. Having been to some of the hot springs in Ecuador, we can say that these are some of the best. Our favorite is at the base of a waterfall that tumbles from the mountain above. You can walk to it from anywhere in town. It costs one dollar, or a little more if you want to enjoy the mineral-rich waters under the stars each evening. A sign documents the amounts of various minerals that are in the water, and many people come to alleviate their arthritis or other illnesses.
There are dozens of volcanoes in Ecuador, and several of them are active. One of the most active ones is Tungurahua, which overlooks Banos. To see it, you need to get out of town. Baños is set deep in the surrounding lush, green mountains, which block the view of the volcano. The best way to get a good look at it, is on a "volcano tour."
There are at least two operations in Banos that take you on tours to see an eruption. Just watch for one of the "chivas" circling town and basting loud music in the evening. A chiva is an open-sided bus of sorts. You can ride on the roof, as I did, or "inside," as my wife did. First you'll get a tour of the city with loud party music playing the whole time. Then you will head up into the mountains.
There may be fire-juggling entertainers on top of the hill, where you will be given a hot rum drink while you look down on the lights of the town. Then, if you are lucky, as we were, and there aren't too many clouds, you'll see Tungurahua spit up some lava. I wrangled another drink or two, as well. The entire two-hour experience, including drinks and the honor of helping to push-start the chiva, cost only $3 per person.
In Baños you can go to a nice zoo (bears, birds, tortoises and more), rent an ATV, bicycle to nearby waterfalls or tunnels, party in one of dozens of bars, buy avocados for 20 cents, see a recent movie
For more information on travel in Ecuador, visit the pages, "Information On Ecuador," and "Climbing Mount Chimborazo." There is also some information on taking the train in Riobamba to "El Nariz Del Diablo," (The Devil's Nose) on the page, "Scenic Train Rides."
Want to brush up on your Spanish before going to Ecuador? Use this link: Free Spanish Lessons