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Banos Ecuador
Baños de Agua Santa, usually just
called Baños, is in the Andes Mountains, at the foot of
the volcano Tungurahua, in Ecuador. A bus from Quito, eighty
miles to the north, will cost you less than five dollars. Once
there, you can soak in one of the hot springs, go to one of the
discos or other bars, and watch a volcano erupt.
In June of 2004, my wife and I spent
a week or so in Banos. We had a clean hotel room with cable TV
and lots of hot water, for $6 per night (It was $12 normally,
but we are good negotiators). We paid $1 for lunch each day ($2.25
total for both, with tip), which was usually chicken, rice, beans,
salad and juice. Sometimes we splurged and paid $1.50 for lunch
at a nicer place.
Most nights we went to Santo Pecado ("saint/sinner")
or one of the other discos (our favorite was Tuparina, perhaps
due to the huayusa, a drink made of a psychedelic plant collected
by the family of the owner). Some days I played chess in the
open market in the center of town, with Manolo, Rene, or other
locals.
Getting Into Hot Water In Banos
There are two hot spring facilities in
Banos, and two more with cold water. Having been to some of the
hot springs in Ecuador, we can say that these are some of the
best. Our favorite is at the base of a waterfall that tumbles
from the mountain above. You can walk to it from anywhere in
town. It costs one dollar, or a little more if you want to enjoy
the mineral-rich waters under the stars each evening. A sign
documents the amounts of various minerals that are in the water,
and many people come to alleviate their arthritis or other illnesses.
Volcano Tours In Baños
There are dozens of volcanoes in Ecuador,
and several of them are active. One of the most active ones is
Tungurahua, which overlooks Banos. To see it, you need to get
out of town. Baños is set deep in the surrounding lush,
green mountains, which block the view of the volcano. The best
way to get a good look at it, is on a "volcano tour."
There are at least two operations in
Banos that take you on tours to see an eruption. Just watch for
one of the "chivas" circling town and basting loud
music in the evening. A chiva is an open-sided bus of sorts.
You can ride on the roof, as I did, or "inside," as
my wife did. First you'll get a tour of the city with loud party
music playing the whole time. Then you will head up into the
mountains.
There may be fire-juggling entertainers
on top of the hill, where you will be given a hot rum drink while
you look down on the lights of the town. Then, if you are lucky,
as we were, and there aren't too many clouds, you'll see Tungurahua
spit up some lava. I wrangled another drink or two, as well.
The entire two-hour experience, including drinks and the honor
of helping to push-start the chiva, cost only $3 per person.
Other Activities in Banos Ecuador
In Baños you can go to a nice
zoo (bears, birds, tortoises and more), rent an ATV, bicycle
to nearby waterfalls or tunnels, party in one of dozens of bars,
buy avocados for 20 cents, see a recent movie in your own private
viewing room for $1.50 per person (bring all the food and drinks
you want) - and almost everything is within a few blocks of any
of the hotels. Did I mention that Banos is beautiful, with a
perfect climate year-round?
For more information on travel in Ecuador,
visit the pages, "Information
On Ecuador," and "Climbing
Mount Chimborazo." There is also some information on
taking the train in Riobamba to "El Nariz Del Diablo,"
(The Devil's Nose) on the page, "Scenic
Train Rides."
Want to brush up on your Spanish before
going to Ecuador? Use this link: Free
Spanish Lessons
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